Rolex stands as one of the most recognizable and prestigious names in the world of luxury goods, requiring no formal introduction. Renowned for its unparalleled craftsmanship, the brand has become synonymous with excellence, luxury, and timeless quality. With a legacy that cannot be fabricated through financial investment or marketing strategies, Rolex occupies a singular position in the watchmaking industry. Founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, the brand has transcended its origins to become a global phenomenon. In the modern era, Rolex does not merely participate in the industry but shapes its trajectory, having established the very standards by which others are measured.
Rolex SA is the foremost luxury watch manufacturer globally, producing over 1.05 million timepieces and achieving sales exceeding $13 billion in 2022. Headquartered in Switzerland, the company designs, manufactures, services, and distributes watches under its Rolex and Tudor brands through an exclusive network of authorized dealers.
When Was Rolex Founded?
Rolex was established in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis in London, England. Initially operating under the name Wilsdorf and Davis, the company relocated its operations to Geneva, Switzerland, in 1919. Today, Rolex is a global powerhouse, recently ranked 57th among the world’s most powerful brands. The brand has crafted legendary timepieces, including the iconic Submariner, Daytona, and GMT-Master collections. Competing with other premier luxury watchmakers such as Patek Philippe, Omega, and Panerai, Rolex has solidified its reputation as a leader in the industry. Additionally, the brand actively sponsors major sporting events across disciplines like tennis, golf, yachting, and racing, further cementing its prestige on the global stage.
To grasp why Rolex wields such significant influence over the watchmaking industry and its trends, one must return to the early 20th century and delve into the vision of a young entrepreneur who believed he had discovered the key to propelling his nascent company into prominence.
Rolex was originally founded in 1902 as Wilsdorf and Davis by Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis. Based in London, the company initially focused on importing high-quality movements from Hermann Aegler and encasing them in premium watch cases produced by firms like Dennison. These watches were then distributed to jewelers, who often branded the timepieces with their own names. Early creations from the company frequently featured the “W&D” stamp inside the caseback, reflecting its origins and commitment to quality.
The Creation of the Rolex Brand
The year 1908 marked a significant milestone for the company as Hans Wilsdorf registered “Rolex” as a trademark and established the brand’s first office in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Wilsdorf envisioned a brand name that would be easy to pronounce in any language and even claimed that “Rolex” mimicked the sound of a watch being wound.
In 1910, Rolex achieved a groundbreaking feat when one of its wristwatches became the first to receive an independently ratified certificate of chronometric performance, awarded in Bienne, Switzerland, due to the exceptional quality of Maison Aegler’s movements. Four years later, in 1914, a Rolex watch received the prestigious Class A precision certificate from the Kew Observatory in England—an accolade typically reserved for marine chronometers. This historic achievement established Rolex as a leader in precision and paved the way for its global reputation for superior chronometric performance.
However, Wilsdorf’s ambitions extended beyond impeccable timekeeping. From the outset, he aspired to create watches that could accompany wearers through life’s adventures. While Rolex watches excelled in stationary chronometer tests, Wilsdorf sought to ensure their durability and reliability in dynamic and challenging environments.
In 1919, the heavy wartime taxes on luxury items, including the silver and gold used in Rolex watches, compelled Wilsdorf to move the company from England to Geneva, Switzerland. This strategic relocation allowed Wilsdorf to work more closely with suppliers in Bienne. The brand was reestablished as Rolex Watch Company in Geneva, later evolving into Montres Rolex SA and ultimately Rolex SA, where its headquarters remain today.
Just 21 years after its founding, Rolex revolutionized the industry with the introduction of the Rolex Oyster case in 1926. Marketed as the world’s first waterproof watch—though today referred to as water-resistant—the Oyster case was a groundbreaking innovation. Its design featured a fluted bezel and caseback with notches, enabling both components to be securely screwed down to the middle case using a proprietary tool developed by Rolex. This hermetically sealed case not only delivered practical functionality but also established an iconic aesthetic that remains a hallmark of the brand. With the Oyster, Rolex set a new standard for watchmaking, cementing its place as a pioneering force in the industry.
Hans Wilsdorf’s confidence in the durability and water resistance of the Rolex Oyster was demonstrated in 1927 when he enlisted famed Channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitze to wear one around her neck during her attempt to cross the English Channel. Although her swim was unsuccessful on that occasion, the watch proved its mettle, maintaining perfect time and remaining completely water-resistant throughout the journey.
Just five years later, in 1931, Wilsdorf realized one of his most ambitious goals: the creation of a self-winding wristwatch. That year marked the debut of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, the first wristwatch to combine a water-resistant, dustproof case with an automatic movement. This innovation secured Wilsdorf’s masterpiece a permanent place among the most significant advancements in horology. The “Oyster Perpetual” name continues to grace Rolex dials, symbolizing the brand’s commitment to functional excellence and timeless design.
Over the subsequent 50 years, Rolex released a succession of iconic models that would reshape the watchmaking industry. Each new design reinforced the brand’s reputation for innovation and established benchmarks that defined luxury timekeeping for generations.
Rolex’s Evolution and Iconic Releases
The 1940s witnessed the introduction of the prolific Datejust model, a timepiece that would become a hallmark of Rolex’s innovation. The following decade marked the debut of several iconic models: the Submariner in 1953, the GMT-Master in 1955, and later, the Day-Date and Milgauss before the decade’s end. These releases cemented Rolex’s reputation for creating timeless designs and functional excellence.
In addition to founding Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf established the Tudor brand in 1946, offering high-quality timepieces at a more accessible price point. Wilsdorf’s vision and leadership drove both companies’ growth, ensuring a commitment to quality and innovation until his death in 1960. While it is common for brands to overshadow their founders, Wilsdorf’s influence remained central to Rolex’s identity, with his personality and values deeply embedded in the company’s ethos and products.
The 1960s ushered in a new era of innovation with the launch of the Deep-Sea Extra Special, a precursor to the Sea-Dweller, which debuted in 1967. Between these aquatic breakthroughs, the Cosmograph Daytona was introduced in 1963, quickly becoming a cultural and horological icon. The 1970s saw further advancements with the release of the Explorer II in 1971, followed by the GMT-Master II in 1982, a model that remains one of the brand’s most coveted designs.
In recent decades, Rolex has continued to expand its portfolio with modern innovations. The Yacht-Master and Pearlmaster debuted in 1992, followed by the Yacht-Master II in 2007, the DeepSea in 2008, the Datejust II in 2009, and the Sky-Dweller in 2012. These contemporary models, crafted with Rolex’s signature high-quality materials and in-house movements, showcase the brand’s commitment to leveraging decades of expertise and a relentless drive for innovation to meet the demands of a new age.
The Hans Wilsdorf Foundation
In 1944, Hans Wilsdorf established the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation following the passing of his wife. Wilsdorf bequeathed all his shares in Rolex to the foundation, ensuring that a portion of the company’s income would be directed toward charitable endeavors. To this day, Rolex remains privately owned by the foundation and is not publicly traded, a unique structure in the world of luxury brands.
Several surprising facts about Rolex’s origins and Wilsdorf’s journey are often overlooked. While many assume Wilsdorf was Swiss, he was, in fact, born in Bavaria, Germany. His early involvement in the watchmaking industry began in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, where he became a strong advocate for wristwatches. At the time, pocket watches were dominant, but Wilsdorf believed wristwatches could gain popularity if they were designed to endure the demands of everyday use.
Another unexpected fact is that Rolex’s origins trace back to London, where Wilsdorf lived when he co-founded Wilsdorf & Davis in 1905. The company’s initial focus was the distribution of wristwatches across Great Britain and the British Empire. Wilsdorf relied exclusively on Swiss manufacturers, particularly Maison Aegler in Bienne, for components that met his exacting standards. Over time, this partnership grew, and Maison Aegler evolved into Manufacture des Montres Rolex S.A., the cornerstone of the Rolex legend.
Through his foundation and visionary leadership, Wilsdorf not only revolutionized the watch industry but also ensured that Rolex would maintain its legacy of excellence and philanthropy for generations to come.
Innovations and Movements
Rolex has been at the forefront of watchmaking innovation since its establishment in 1902, earning a reputation for pioneering advancements and exceptional designs. The brand achieved numerous industry firsts, including:
- 1910: The first wristwatch to earn the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision.
- 1926: Development of the first waterproof wristwatch, the Rolex Oyster, which laid the foundation for the iconic Oyster collection still in production today.
- 1945: Introduction of the first wristwatch with an automatic date function on the dial, the Datejust.
- 1954: Launch of the first wristwatch capable of displaying two time zones simultaneously, the GMT-Master.
- 1956: Release of the Day-Date, the first wristwatch to display both the day and date on the dial.
- 2012: Innovation of a command bezel designed for multiple functionalities, further enhancing usability and sophistication.
Movements
Before 1931, Rolex watches required manual winding. That year, the company revolutionized the industry with the introduction of the “bubbleback,” a self-winding model. This design utilized the movement of the wearer’s arm to power the self-winding mechanism, making the watches not only more convenient but also more reliable in timekeeping.
During the late 1960s and 1970s, Rolex engineers were instrumental in advancing quartz movement technology. Collaborating with 16 other manufacturers, Rolex contributed to the development of the Beta 21 quartz movement, which was featured in the Rolex Quartz Date reference 5100. Building on this foundation, Rolex developed the clean-slate 5035/5055 movement within five years, incorporating it into the Rolex Oysterquartz collection.
Through its relentless pursuit of innovation, Rolex has consistently set new standards in horology, blending technical mastery with timeless design.
How Many Watches Does Rolex Produce Annually?
According to statistics from the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), Rolex produces approximately 700,000 mechanical chronometers each year. This remarkable production volume underscores the brand’s commitment to precision and quality, as all Rolex watches undergo rigorous testing to meet the highest chronometric standards before reaching the market.
Current Rolex Watch Models
Over its storied history, Rolex has produced a vast array of timepieces, encompassing both vintage and modern designs. While many older models have been discontinued and are now regarded as collectible, the brand continues to innovate and offer contemporary models catering to diverse needs and preferences.
Rolex designs its watches to suit specific lifestyles and activities. For instance, the Rolex Submariner is ideal for swimming and diving enthusiasts, featuring water resistance and accuracy under pressure. On the other hand, the Rolex Daytona caters to racing enthusiasts, paying homage to the world of motorsports with its name inspired by the iconic Daytona racing event.
Models in the Oyster Collection:
- Datejust
- Datejust II
- Datejust Lady 31
- Datejust Pearlmaster 34
- Day-Date
- Day-Date II
- Cosmograph Daytona
- Rolex Deepsea
- Explorer
- Explorer II
- GMT-Master II
- Lady-Datejust
- Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster
- Milgauss
- Oyster Perpetual
- Sea-Dweller 4000
- Submariner
- Sky-Dweller
- Yacht-Master
- Yacht-Master II
Models in the Cellini Collection:
- Cellini Time
- Cellini Date
- Cellini Dual Time
- Cellini Rolex Prince
Each of these models reflects Rolex’s enduring commitment to quality, precision, and innovation, offering timepieces that blend functionality with timeless design.
Rolex: A Timeless Heritage
Rolex is a name synonymous with luxury, craftsmanship, and innovation. Founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, the brand has cultivated a remarkable legacy, earning its place as one of the world’s most respected and admired watchmakers.
Hans Wilsdorf, along with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis, initially operated a business importing high-quality Swiss movements and placing them into finely crafted cases. However, Wilsdorf aspired to create something greater—a brand that was universally recognized. He coined the name “Rolex,” believing it was easy to remember, pronounceable in any language, and possibly onomatopoeic, resembling the sound of a watch being wound. By 1915, Rolex was officially registered, and an office was established in Switzerland.
From the outset, Wilsdorf prioritized creating watches with unparalleled precision. This commitment to chronometric excellence quickly elevated the brand. Rolex became the first wristwatch to receive the prestigious Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision, awarded by the Official Watch Rating Centre in Bienne. This recognition was soon followed by Great Britain’s Kew Observatory awarding a Class A precision certificate—an accolade previously reserved for marine chronometers.
These milestones cemented Rolex’s reputation for precision and quality. Over the years, Rolex has continued to uphold its founder’s vision, blending innovation and timeless design to remain at the pinnacle of the watchmaking world.
The Early Years: 1905–1920
Hans Wilsdorf, born in Germany in 1881, moved to London in the early 1900s and founded Wilsdorf & Davis in 1905. The company specialized in importing and distributing Swiss-made watches at a time when wristwatches were not yet widely accepted, with most people favoring pocket watches. Wilsdorf, however, foresaw the potential of wristwatches and sought to create a line of high-quality, reliable timepieces that would appeal to a broader audience.
In 1908, Wilsdorf registered the trademark “Rolex,” a name he devised to embody the brand’s ethos. The name combines the French word horlogerie (meaning “watchmaking”) with the English concept of “excellence,” reflecting his vision of merging precision craftsmanship with unparalleled quality.
Rolex began revolutionizing the industry early on. In 1910, the company introduced its first wristwatch, the Oyster, featuring a waterproof case that became an instant success. The Oyster set a new standard for durability and established Rolex as a leader in the watchmaking industry.
In 1914, Rolex achieved another milestone with the launch of its first automatic movement, the Perpetual. This self-winding mechanism was the first of its kind used in a wristwatch, representing a groundbreaking advancement in reliability and accuracy. These innovations not only enhanced the functionality of Rolex watches but also solidified the brand’s reputation for excellence in its formative years.
The Interwar Years: 1920–1939
In 1920, Rolex relocated its operations to Geneva, a city renowned for its watchmaking excellence. This move marked the beginning of a new era for the company, which focused on waterproofing its timepieces. Rolex introduced the Oyster, a watch with a hermetically sealed case that offered unparalleled protection against water and dust. To prove its durability, in 1927, Mercedes Gleitze, an English swimmer, wore a Rolex Oyster around her neck during her 10-hour swim across the English Channel. The watch emerged from the water in perfect working condition, showcasing Rolex’s superior craftsmanship.
During the 1920s and 1930s, Rolex used real-world challenges like motorsports, aviation, and extreme expeditions as testing grounds for its timepieces. These ventures validated the brand’s precision and reliability, consistently exceeding the highest expectations.
Rolex continued to innovate and push the boundaries of watchmaking during this period:
1926: The introduction of the Bubbleback, a watch with a larger case that improved the accuracy of its movement, setting a new standard for timekeeping.
1933: The launch of the Datejust, the world’s first wristwatch with an automatic date display. This groundbreaking model solidified Rolex’s reputation as a pioneer in horological advancements.
1936: The debut of the Oyster Perpetual, which combined the waterproof Oyster case with an automatic movement. This model became a cornerstone of the Rolex collection and remains one of its most iconic timepieces.
The World War Years: 1939–1945
Despite the challenges of World War II, Rolex maintained its commitment to producing high-quality watches, solidifying its reputation as a reliable and innovative brand. During this period, the company introduced timepieces that would go on to define its legacy.
In 1945, Rolex unveiled the Oyster Perpetual Submariner, a waterproof watch specifically designed for divers. Engineered to withstand underwater pressure, the Submariner quickly became a favorite among professional and recreational divers alike. Its success not only cemented Rolex’s status as a leader in the sports and adventure watch category but also set a new benchmark for durability and functionality in timepieces.
The introduction of the Submariner during the war years demonstrated Rolex’s resilience and ability to innovate even in the face of global conflict, further solidifying its place as a pioneering force in horology.
The Post-War Years: 1945–1960
The post-war era was a time of remarkable innovation and growth for Rolex, as the company expanded its product line and solidified its reputation for excellence in both sports and luxury timepieces.
In 1953, Rolex introduced two groundbreaking models:
- The GMT-Master, designed for pilots, featured a dual-time zone function, allowing wearers to track multiple time zones simultaneously. This innovation was highly valued in the growing aviation industry and helped to establish Rolex as a leader in functional timepieces for professionals.
- The Submariner, the world’s first divers’ watch, was waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet). Its rotatable bezel enabled divers to track their immersion time. Crafted from 904L stainless steel, a material prized for its exceptional resistance to corrosion and durability, the Submariner combined robustness with elegance, performing flawlessly under extreme conditions. Over the decades, it has been updated with enhanced water resistance, advanced movements, and refined designs. In 2003, Rolex celebrated the Submariner’s 50th anniversary by launching the Submariner-Date anniversary edition (Model 16610), featuring a green bezel and Maxi dial. Subsequent updates, including a cerachrome bezel and an improved clasp, have ensured its enduring appeal among divers and collectors alike.
In 1955, Rolex unveiled the Day-Date, the first wristwatch to display both the date and the day of the week written in full on the dial. This innovation elevated Rolex’s status as a leader in luxury watchmaking, appealing to a sophisticated audience.
The 1960 release of the Cosmograph Daytona marked another milestone. Designed specifically for racing drivers, the Daytona featured a chronograph function and a tachymeter scale, enabling drivers to measure speed and lap times. Its stylish design and practical functionality made it an instant classic, and it remains one of Rolex’s most iconic and sought-after models.
As Rolex continued to innovate during the 1950s and 1960s, it not only set benchmarks for performance and durability but also cemented its legacy as a purveyor of timeless luxury and precision craftsmanship. Models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, Day-Date, and Daytona remain enduring symbols of the brand’s heritage and excellence.
The 1970s: Continued Innovation
In the 1970s, Rolex expanded its product line with two notable models:
- Sea-Dweller: Designed for deep-sea diving, this model pushed the boundaries of underwater watch technology, offering enhanced water resistance and durability for professional divers.
- Explorer II: Crafted for adventurers and explorers, the Explorer II featured innovations like a 24-hour hand, making it an essential tool for navigating environments where distinguishing day from night is challenging.
The 1980s and 1990s: Refinement and Growth
During the 1980s and 1990s, Rolex solidified its reputation for high-quality craftsmanship and innovation. This era saw the introduction of:
- Yacht-Master: A watch tailored for sailing enthusiasts, combining functionality with Rolex’s signature luxury.
- Datejust II: A modern reinterpretation of the classic Datejust, featuring an updated design and enhanced performance.
These decades were marked by sustained growth and an unwavering commitment to maintaining Rolex’s status as a leading luxury brand.
2000s to the Present: A Legacy of Leadership
In the 21st century, Rolex remains at the forefront of the watch industry, consistently upholding its reputation for innovation and excellence. The brand produces a diverse range of watches, including sports models, dress watches, and classic timepieces, all renowned for their precision, durability, and timeless design.
Bob’s Watches is the world’s first and only pre-owned Rolex exchange, offering a transparent marketplace where consumers can buy, sell, and trade Rolex watches at fair market values. Unlike other online retailers, Bob’s Watches operates with integrity and trust, providing accurate buy and sell prices for each Rolex model. Every watch listed on BobsWatches.com is in stock and ready for immediate sale, ensuring a seamless experience for collectors and enthusiasts. This commitment to transparency and customer satisfaction has made Bob’s Watches the leading online destination for pre-owned Rolex timepieces.
CEO of Rolex
The current CEO of Rolex is Jean-Frédéric Dufour, who is the sixth CEO in the brand’s illustrious history. Renowned for his expertise in the watchmaking industry, Dufour is a protégé and close associate of Jean-Claude Biver, the former CEO of Hublot. Before joining Rolex, Dufour held senior positions at prestigious watch companies such as Zenith and TAG Heuer, bringing a wealth of experience to the role.
Rolex Headquarters
While Rolex was originally founded in London, the company relocated its headquarters to Geneva, Switzerland in 1920, where it remains to this day. Despite its European base, Rolex operates on a global scale, with its watches sold worldwide. The company employs approximately 30,000 individuals and reported an annual revenue of around $1.05 billion in 2021. This global presence and continued success reflect Rolex’s enduring reputation for excellence and innovation in watchmaking.
Rolex’s Ride to the Future
In September, Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour convened 400 executives at the annual Rolex International Managers Meeting (RIMM) in Crans-Montana, Switzerland. Against the backdrop of the Swiss Alps, Dufour symbolically led his team on a nature bike ride, underscoring the brand’s heightened focus on sustainability. Under his stewardship, Rolex has intensified its environmental efforts, notably through its Perpetual Planet Initiative, while reducing its involvement in energy-intensive sponsorships such as Formula 1.
As Dufour approaches his tenth year at the helm, his leadership has been marked by remarkable achievements. Rolex has doubled its revenue and strengthened its position as the world’s leading luxury watch brand. However, these successes are accompanied by ambitious projects and external market challenges, requiring careful navigation in the years ahead.
Strategic Expansion
Among Dufour’s boldest initiatives is the construction of Rolex’s fifth manufacture, an unprecedented investment exceeding 1 billion Swiss francs. Scheduled for completion in 2029, the new facility in Bulle, Switzerland, will consist of five buildings and employ 2,000 personnel. This expansion underscores Rolex’s commitment to meeting global demand while upholding its exacting quality standards. Yet, the project presents logistical challenges, including workforce recruitment, specialized training, and maintaining the stringent quality control that defines the brand’s reputation.
Internal Reforms
Concurrently, Rolex has faced internal challenges. Reports of harassment within its global after-sales service department earlier this year prompted swift action, including terminations at senior levels and a complete departmental reorganization. Dufour has taken significant steps to modernize the company’s culture, restructuring its executive leadership to bring fresh perspectives as veteran managers retire.
Navigating a Complex Global Landscape
Externally, Rolex operates in a world of growing uncertainties. The economic slowdown in China, geopolitical tensions in Europe, and a new presidential administration in the United States add layers of complexity to the luxury market. While demand for Rolex timepieces remains robust, Dufour must address challenges such as overextended supply chains and reinvigorating a sales culture at authorized dealers, many of whom grew complacent during the recent market boom.
Rolex’s Strategic Shift: A New Era Under Jean-Frédéric Dufour
Rolex’s recent acquisition of Bucherer, the world’s largest luxury watch retailer, signals a transformative shift in the brand’s traditional business model. Historically focused on manufacturing, Rolex is now expanding its role as a distributor. The multi-billion-franc deal integrates downstream operations, potentially laying the groundwork for a Rolex-owned global retail network. However, this strategic pivot introduces complexities, as Bucherer also sells competing luxury brands, creating potential conflicts within the expanded portfolio.
Recalibrating Retail Relationships
Alongside the Bucherer acquisition, Rolex is rethinking its partnerships with independent retailers. After years of supply-demand imbalances driven by speculative buying and long waitlists, the company is working to stabilize its order backlog. This includes reducing the number of authorized dealers while enhancing inventory at remaining boutiques. By streamlining its retail network, Rolex aims to provide a more consistent and premium shopping experience for its customers.
Bolstering the Supply Chain
Rolex is also strengthening its supply chain through strategic acquisitions and collaborations. The company’s stakes in suppliers such as Incabloc and partnerships with Patek Philippe and Chanel reflect a commitment to supporting Switzerland’s horological ecosystem. However, this growing industrial footprint raises questions among competitors about sharing suppliers with an industry leader that commands 35% of the global luxury watch market.
Rolex’s Financial and Market Dominance
Under Dufour’s leadership, Rolex has achieved extraordinary success, with annual revenue estimated at 12 billion Swiss francs and production reaching 1.2 million watches per year. The brand has not only cemented its place as the world’s top luxury watchmaker but also ranks among the top 10 global luxury brands.
The Road Ahead
Dufour’s challenge lies in executing the brand’s ambitious vision while navigating the headwinds facing the industry. The sole shareholder, the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, supports a long-term strategy that balances bold innovation with Rolex’s conservative ethos.
This new phase will test Dufour’s leadership as he manages billions in deployed capital, recalibrates retail strategies, and maintains Rolex’s market dominance. As the company enters this pivotal chapter, Dufour’s ability to strike the right balance between tradition and transformation will determine Rolex’s trajectory, ensuring its enduring position at the pinnacle of luxury watchmaking.
By Zukhrakhon Mansurova
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